Saturday, April 30, 2011

Lagunitas - Wilco Tango Foxtrot

I have come to realize that since I have started this blog, I have been neglecting some of the larger and more popular names in craft brewing.  I look to be drinking some more of those revered brands in the near future and today will be no exception.  Today's brew is Lagunitas' Wilco Tango Foxtrot (aka "wtf").  While their knowledge of the NATO phonetic alphabet may be a bit lacking (the letter 'W' is actually "whiskey," not "wilco"),  their penchant for making good, hoppy beers is not.  Two things make me more excited than usual to drink this beer.

1.  I purchased this beer literally before they could even stock it on the shelves.  I saw a box full and took one to purchase.
2.  The top declares, "Limited Release."  Who does not get excited about that?

Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 8/12
A classic Lagunitas aroma of hops greets you immediately.  In a pleasant change, these hops do not appear to want to thrash you about the head with their presence.  They are the dominant aroma, but they do allow for a few (I do mean few) of the brown ale characteristics to show.  For a beer stating a 64.20 IBU on the bottle, this is rather impressive.  Once the head dies down a bit, one can detect caramel notes and bits of raw sugar.

Appearance 3/3
On the label, this beer (because it is described as "A malty, robust, jobless recovery ale,") claims that "We're not quite in the Red, or in the Black... Does that mean we're in the Brown?"  It would have to be classified as a dark red or a light brown (33 EBC).  It pours a lovely copper color with a light beige head that is larger than average and has amazing retention.  The only the superior to the retention is the lacing, which was left up and down the far side of my glass.  To date, I have never had a beer with as high lacing as this.  The foam  on top appeared creamy in texture, but not without "lumps."  They did not look like bubbles, but rather lumps as one would see in a more viscous liquid where the liquid shows a shape underneath yet still covers the top of the object.

Picture is my own.
Flavor 19/20
Never let the aroma tell the full story.  The first sip was laden with initial flavors of dark fruits and malt (almost "abbey ale-esque" in nature), which quickly gives way to a strong hop character though not completely.  The hops are definitely the backbone of the beer and are true to Lagunitas form: earthy, grassy, and not without its pepper.  The balance does lean toward the hops, but the dark fruit flavor is never absent nor overwhelmed.  The finish is a perfect extension of the beer's main structure and gives way to a fun aftertaste.  The aftertaste starts out nutty and bitter like a quintessential brown ale.  As it continues the taste becomes more bitter (making it easy to see the "black" they claim on the label), but continues and eventually rests as hoppy goodness on the sides of your tongue.  What a neat fading in and out of flavors!  Nice progression.

Mouthfeel 5/5
Wilco Tango Foxtrot has a medium-full body, medium-high carbonation (even toward the end of the bottle), and a nice, light warmth to compliment this darker style.  The body is a perfect balance of drinkability vs. body.  This brew is as thick as it can be to compliment its bold flavors, but not so thick as one would not want several.  Please do not read that as "this is a session beer."  With its 7.8% ABV, and robust taste, it is anything but.

Overall Impression 8/10
Technically sound and with a strong, complex flavor this beer is definitely one to try.  It successfully includes aspects of several different styles.  Malt and color from the reds, nutty and roasted flavors from the brown, and bitter, high alcohol content from the black ales.  Wrap that all up with a tolerable level of Lagunitas signature hops and the result is a very good beer.

Total 43/50 (Excellent)
This ranking puts is toward the top of the "excellent" category, and rightfully so.  Let me clarify by stating that I am not a far of overly hoppy beers.  I much prefer the complex, fruity darkness of a Abbey Ale or Tripel to the bitter assault of hops any day.  In fact, I was a bit hesitant to pick up this bottle of Lagunitas, knowing their love for hoptastic beers.  Long story short?  They got me.  This beer is not a blend of flavors who compliment each other and dissolve into one another.  This is a heavy-weight fight with both the sweet dark fruit and the hop flavors present and neither one wants to back down.

The beer is fantastic technically, and did not overwhelm me with its hops.  Don't get me wrong, the hops are strong, but they will not kill you.  In fact, you might find something you truly enjoy.  I know I did.  The best part about this beer was getting to the bottom of my glass, realizing I had bought a bomber, and pouring myself another.  Kudos Lagunitas!  I'll be sharing this one with friends.

Point - Burly Brown

Happy Friday, brew fans!  It has been far too long since I have had a brown ale and I look to remedy that ASAP.  Tonight's pouring is from Point Brewery in Stevens Point, WI.  I tend to trust beers from Wisconsin as the vast majority of Wisconsinites are of German descent and can whip up a tasty brew before you can say "Reinheitsgebot."  That in mind I am excited to try this latest offering.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 9/12
The aroma is very malt-heavy and not entirely inappropriate for the style.  The medium roast and notes of caramel great compliments to one another and are a pleasant way to make this beer's acquaintance.  Once the  head dies down, the sweet nutty aroma shows lightly.  The nutty aroma somehow mixes with the caramel and sweetness to occasionally remind the drinker of something cola-esque.

Appearance 2/3
The color is a bit light for the style, bring almost amber/reddish under better lighting than the above photo.  However, the beige head was generous for the gentle pour, retention was solid at worst, and left some nice lacing.  A collar remained to the end of the pint.

Picture is my own.
Flavor 10/20
An extremely light flavor especially when considering the name (let alone the style).  Initial flavors are so light as to nearly be non-existent.  The backbone of the beer is malty, but not in a roasted way as the style demands.  The malt could very well be pale (or even crystal!) with caramel flavors added; a disappointing departure from the aroma.  The finish is again a nutty, malt sweetness with an almost complete lack of roast flavor.  In a true example of "better late than never," the aftertaste has some nutty tones and a nice round bitter.  The flavor is almost like getting a little bit of the shell or lining when eating a walnut - some earthy, sweet taste and a stronger bitter counterpart.

Mouthfeel 2/5
The first impression when sampling this beer had to do with its mouthfeel: thin.  While the carbonation is just about perfect, the body is watery.  This results in a brown that is easier to drink than most, but with too high of an alcohol content (5.43% ABV) to make it truly sessionable.  For a thin beer, it somehow manages to obtain a desirable level of creaminess.

Overall Impression 4/10
A brown ale that is not quite brown, has little roasted malt flavor, light body, and very little nut flavor is overall very disappointing indeed.  The whole beer needs to be bolder, especially to be labeled as a brown (or known as a good one).  The was some good promise in the aroma, but it turned out to be more of a let-down when actually discovering the flavor.

Total 27/50 (Good)
For a beer that is labeled as such, it is anything but, "Burly."  It seems to lighten the best parts of a brown ale every chance it gets.  Perhaps this beer is one of many that loses its way when a brewery grows in size and enjoys the recent spat of success that Point Brewery is currently riding.  It seems light in flavor and more designed for the masses than those who enjoy a quality beer.  For the money, there are certainly more robust brown ales to be had out there.



Thursday, April 28, 2011

Founders - Cerise

I do not believe that my experience for this bottle is a typical one.  This does not make especially good or bad, but it there is no doubt that it is different.  I believe this difference stems from the "Bottled on" date on this particular bottle of Cerise: 06/02/2010.  This date puts the beer in this bottle at almost 11 months old.  I did not buy this beer on sale, nor was it part of a pick six.  It came in its own 4-pack from my trusty wine & liquor store.    A brewery like Founders has a lot of respect in the craft brew world, hence an experience like mine I will chalk up to an aged beer and not Founders' lackluster efforts at brewing a particular style.  I shall leave you in mystery no longer.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 5/12
The only smell is that of IPA-esque hops.  Definitely not what one expects when taking a sniff of a "cherry fermented ale" (as claimed on the bottle).  The label on the neck claims 15 IBU's, but this scent would have one guess a much, much higher rating.  The hops' aroma overwhelms everything else.  Once the head dies, one can faintly detect a tart cherry aroma hiding amongst the hops.

Appearance 3/3
Color is a orange-gold that is made a bit darker by the haze also inside the glass.  The haze is not caused by any sediment.  A large fluffy head tops the glass, remains there for an extended period and leaves some lovely lacing on the glass.  Top marks all around.

Flavor 17/20
This is not what one looks for when expecting to sip a nice glass of cherries, but that does not make it a bad thing.  The initial flavor is the tart sweetness of authentic cherries, but is followed very quickly with the IPA-esque hops from the aroma.  The sweet and bitter never end up complimenting each other perfectly, but do eventually find a balance.  The balance (not the flavor!) is reminiscient of, say, a cherry whiskey.  Cherry is present, but so is a strong other flavor as well.  Not perfectly complimentary, but definitely a unique sensation.   

Mouthfeel 4/5
A pleasantly heavier body than one usually finds in a fruit-based brew.  The body can be classified as medium, with a high level of small, dense carbonation.  Because the carbonation bubbles are so small, it avoids becoming prickly and does the beer a great service.  A lightly slick feeling and a bit of warmth can be felt in its finish.

Overall Impression 5/10
This bottle has clearly sat too long and altered the brewer's hard work.  The label claims 15 IBUs and at that level should be nearly undetectable.  However, the hops are not only present, but nearly dominating in this bottle.  The beer is still top notch in some categories, but its "new" flavor has taken its toll on the rest.  A unique taste that may not be found by this taster again, but that is not exactly a terrible tragedy.

Total 29/50 (Good)
This rank still puts this brew at the top of the "Good" category, oddly enough.  While the flavors that were present may not have been entirely appropriate, they were still good flavors (not acidic, metallic, skunky, rotten, etc).  The strong technical nature of the beer (good carbonation, solid body, perfect appearance, etc) keeps this beer's score high, despite its style-blending flavor and aroma.  I have never had a hopped-up fruit beer and I doubt I ever shall again.  While I know I should not say that given the experimental nature of craft brewing and the adamant demand from some circles for progressively hoppier beers, but it is not a beer I would see going "main stream" (e.g. being sold in four packs at my local wine & liquor store).  At best it would be a lone vat made at a brew pub or a "special blend" released on a small scale to a brewery's local following.  I don't know if this result could be repeated by "cellaring" a Founders Cerise for 11 months, but it may be worth a try for those who are seeking to blend two very different styles of beer.

Final word?  Hopped-up fruit beer.  Interesting, but not something I'd seek.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Pinkus - Organic Ur Pils

I have done much yard work today.  I also have several acquaintances pressing me for some reviews on dark, amazing beer.  I apologize to my friends, but yard work has put me in the mood for something light and in a bottle no smaller than a bomber bottle.  Of course, my beer fridge delivers.  Today we review the Pinkus Organic Ur Pils.  I am a little hesitant because the last Pinkus I had was a sub-par hefe, but yard work has the strange ability to drive the desire for suds.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 10/12
First reaction?  "Ooo!" (end quote)  The aroma is quite sweet.  The malt is a sweet bready smell and combines nicely with the fruity and floral esters that are floating about my glass.  Flowers are definitely present and one could only pin down the fruit aromas as that of apple and grape.  This is obviously not-to-style, but a pleasant surprise nonetheless.

Appearance 2/3
Nothing earth-shattering in the pour.  It pours a dusky yellow (subsequent pours with sediment result in a dark gold), with an expectation-meeting ivory head.  Very hazy as a result of sediment.  The bottle does mention that it is an "unfiltered pilsner beer," but that does not make it appropriate for the style.  I apologize for the lack of a customary photo next to the EBC scale.  Without placing any blame, it appears that the scale has been "misplaced."

Flavor 17/20
Tastes before the sediment was added to the glass were initially sour for an instant before heading into the main structure of the beer.  Once sediment was added, the beer became much more rich and mellow.  The malt is also harder to detect initially (with or without malt), but after warming it is a rich, sweet, flavor that hints almost toward caramel (!).  The primary flavor is a light, crisp, sweetness with lemon notes and a very nice balance of a spicy hop bitter.  The bitter takes the drinker into the finish and helps the beer find a dry, satisfying finish.  Excellent flavor, but not to style.

Mouthfeel 3/5
A bit heavy in the body for the style, but not unpleasantly so.  Carbonation is average and there is even a bit of creaminess present in this pilsner.  The only drawback was a slickness left in the mouth.  It left me smacking for several minutes even after I had finished the pint.

Overall Impression 8/10
The general theme with this beer is "not to style."  However, in its error it is giving us more rather than less: more flavor, more aroma, more body, more sediment.  The balance is excellent, but this beer is overall far too sweet and flavor rich to be considered a pilsner.  It should be scored lower, but all the ways in which it "was not to style," were so pleasing that its rating stands.

Total 40/50 (Excellent)
As I have just mentioned this beer is a far cry from a pils of any style (American, German, etc).  If I had scored this beer with a heavier emphasis on stylistic accuracy I would have to rank it no higher than a 26 (Ar:6, Ap:1, Fl:12, M:3, O:4).  However, because this beer delivers more than what its style demands I have rated more highly.  That and because it's my blog and I can do whatever I like.  If I were to perform a blind taste test this, I would have guessed it a poor man's hefe.  It is lighter in body and flavor than  hefe, but all the essentials are there in a subdued package.  I even began to wonder if this was not a failed attempt to brew a hefe (hence its unfiltered state and flavors), that was cleverly remarketed at the last moment.  In any case, I opened this pils for a light refreshing treat and I was not disappointed.  Regardless of whether or not it is to style, I enjoyed it a great deal and would gladly purchase another bottle.  Cheers, Pinkus!

Sunday, April 17, 2011

New Glarus - Unplugged/Apple Ale REDUX!

Fellow tasters, I came upon a rather unsettling discovery the other evening.  I had the exact same bottle of beer and two completely different taste sensations.  They were bought at the same time and may have very well been in the same pack - I am not sure after they enter "the beer fridge."  What I do know is that my wife enjoys beer flavored with fruit (krieks, lambics, etc), and so I buy those for her from time to time.  It not only keeps the wifey happy ("Happy wife, happy life!"), but it also gives me the chance to sample some brews that I might not otherwise try.

This "second taste" belongs to New Glarus' - Apple Ale, a member of their 'Unplugged' series.  I feel that it certainly deserves a second chance, especially after tasting a second flavor.  This is not to say that my tasting has been inconsistent, exactly the opposite.  I sampled the same beer, yet experienced two different flavors.  Either I got a bad bottle or New Glarus has some serious product consistency issues with which to deal.  The second taste of the beer tasted more like, well, beer!  It was not as cidery.  It was a beer with apple flavorings as opposed to a apple-flavored cider.  This time I will even pour it in a snifter so I can capture every last bit of aroma and match it to every hint of flavor.

Let's pour... AGAIN!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 9/12
Same as the last review, but there was a little more malt aroma to this.  Rather what I expected.  Long story short: more beer aromas (and not cider), equals more points.  They say it's an ale and this bottle smells more like an ale.

Appearance 1/3
Same great color and mixed qualities or cider and juice, but the head not only doesn't produce, it doesn't even stick around.   Even an aggressive pour cannot produce a decent-sized head (or much of any for that matter).

Picture is my own.
Flavor 16/20
A strengthening of the brown ale base give this beer the boost it needs to break free of the "cider" mold in which it has been cast.  Not by much, but enough to be taken a bit more seriously.  The brown ale base incorporates itself in every phase of the palate.  The initial taste is more sour than it was previously, but it still followed by the sparkling cider taste and a buttery flavor.  The main structure is the a light version of the cider flavor combined with the butter and the brown ale hints.  I cannot express what a difference this makes.  It changes the brew from a juice-like concoction into a much more mature offering.  The finish is still sweet and buttery, but now adds the brief flavor of the brown malt, albeit lightened.  Aftertaste definitely adds brown maltiness to it as well; a nice compliment to the authentic cider notes.

Mouthfeel 4/5
No longer "woodchuck-esque" in its body.  Its amazing what malt presence can do.  It changes the body from soda/cider into something closer to beer.  Much improved.

Overall Impression 7/10
Not a huge adjustment overall, but one that adds complexity and maturity to an brew with excellent, authentic flavors.  It went from cider to beer.  A sweet beer, but a beer nonetheless.

Total 37/50
This bottle helps redeem this "unplugged" offering from New Glarus, though it does not explain the inconsistency between the bottles.  The slight variation in flavors changes the complexity and overall theme of the brew.  I would no longer have a problem discerning this from a cider, nor would anyone else.  I am glad that most of the bottles I had purchased (8) turned out this way as opposed to the cidery offering I experienced before.  The ratings change is not a world of difference as that I still feel it is a rather simple (though authentic) brew, but I do need to be forthright and honest about the brews I sample.

I hope this serves as a reminder to always give a beer a second chance.  You never know now long a distributor has been holding onto a case, or how long a retailer held it in back, or to what temperatures it was exposed, etc, etc.  After all, if you are not willing to give a beer a second chance, you may be missing out on something you will truly enjoy.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Shiner - Bohemian Black Lager

You have got to respect the folks at Shiner.  They keep trying different styles and selling them for our enjoyment.  While I have not had any brews from them that are a "must-buy" or a knock-out punch to my tastebuds as of yet, I will keep buying Shiner because I like what they are doing, I want them to continue, and one of these days they are going to knock it out of the park.  This review is for their Bohemian Black Lager.  The black/gun-metal gray monochrome packaging is sweet looking and encouraging.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 5/12
This score is a little worrisome as the aroma usually foretells the fate of the beer.  Not that the smells are not interesting, they simply are not strong enough.  Right off the bat, there is a sweet roasted smell that is akin almost to roasted marshmallows.  An unusually sweet smell for a schwarzbier.  There is also a faint smell of chocolate, but any hop aroma is absent.

Appearance 3/3
Appearance is appropriate to style.  In fact, the visual is quite perfect, casting deep ruby hues behind a black translucent shade.  The beer pours like a lager, despite its dark roots, and yields a moderate-sized, loose, khaki head.  The head has excellent retention, keeping a collar to the bottom of the pint, but lacks any lacing.

Picture is my own.


Flavor 12/20
In a similar story to the aroma, there are certainly noticeable flavors, but they are meek and light.  Initial tastes yield a watery, malty taste and little of the roasted aroma.  The sweet malt then blends perfectly with a coffee flavor and remains that way through the finish.  A nice balance, even if the flavors are somewhat muted.  The after taste is remarkably clean for a black beer, but eventually reveals a spicy hop bitter and a bit of coffee.  The hop is noticeable by itself during an exhale.

Mouthfeel 3/5
This offering seems a bit light-bodied for the style.  The carbonation level is appropriate for the style, but it feels prickly and is a bit distracting.  Extremely drinkable!  It would be a very nice compliment to a sweet, charred, rack of ribs.

Overall Impression 7/10
While this beer will not win any prizes for an intense flavor, I must give it accordingly high marks for its stylistic accuracy, with the exception of a near-absence of hops.  Its light flavors are noticeable, yet light, and allow this lager to remain flavorful and extremely quaffable.

Total 30/50 (Very Good)
We cannot expect the same strong, dark, roasty flavors of a porter to some out of a black lager.  This is a different style and must be judged accordingly.  Again, I fear I may have let my bias weigh a bit heavier in this review than I should because the stylistic accuracy is very high, but my personal preference for intense flavor was not met.  However, I do feel the flavors could have been stronger, the body a bit more, and the hops present in anything more than a suggestion.  This rating says that this brew is "generally within style parameters" but could be touched up a little.  I could not agree more.  However, if you are wanting to get into black beers, stouts, imperials, and the like, I could not think of a better starting point.

Sam Adams - Noble Pils

I know this is not exactly a "rare" beer.  However, Samuel Adams still accounts for less than 1% of beer sales in the United States (kinda sad, really) and I have not done a review of a Sam Adams to date.  Also, in my defense, I have heard many good things about this beer and appreciate Sam Adams dedication to quality and making "non-macros" brews.  They have been more focussed on good beer than good profits for some time and that says something.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 6/12
The theme of the aroma is definitely the sour, citrusy hops.  Underneath, there is the aroma of true, almost piney hops, but they were not as present as one would expect in a beer that boasts 5 types of hops.  Then again, this is "just" a pilsner and perhaps one should expect a lighter, more subtle aroma.

Appearance 3/3
The picture says it all.  Does that not look like a perfect pilsner?  It is a bright, clear yellow and has a sizable  head that comes roaring out of even the gentlest pour.  The head retention was phenomal and the lacing was more than I expected out of a pilsner as well.  Top marks all around.  Cheers!

Picture is my own.
Flavor 17/20
There is no insane flavor waiting for you in this bottle.  However, this is a pilsner and so that not only is OK, it is appropriate.  A sweetish, grainy front is the introduction.  This leads to a balanced structure that does favor the "hops" side.  The bitter of the hops combines with a light spiciness that is quite nice.  This is not the "death by hops" amount of hops that are often insisted upon by many west coast brewers.  The hop flavors are present and enjoyable without beating one about the head.  The bitter and spice in the mouth are a departure from the citrus that was present in the nose.  The citrus is all but absent in the backbone.  The finish is true to its pilsner roots; clean and crisp.  The aftertaste again revisits the bitterness of the hops and leaves a dryness that does not alter the refreshing nature of this beer.

Mouthfeel 5/5
Very drinkable for a beer themed by hops!  A tad heavier than the average pilsner, but the "average" pilsner is often a thin macro offering.  This is a welcome change.  Noble Pils' body is still appropriate to style as is the near-sparkling carbonation.

Overall Impression 7/10
A technically sound beer that not only is a great quencher, but also a great introduction to hops without being overwhelming.  A bit simple in its flavors with only the hops, spice, and malt truly present.  A bit more of the citrus notes from the aroma or any other complimentary sweet flavor (honey, sugar, etc) would have been welcome and suited this seasonal beer.

Total 38/50 (Excellent)
I originally had this beer scored lower due to a personal bias: I enjoy intense beers.  It should come as no big surprise that a pilsner is not a huge glass of flavor and I rated it accordingly.  However, the more and more I drank, the more I realized that this beer is an excellent representation of the style.  Not only that, but it still manages to add a little something extra in the way of body and hops.

Kudos to the boys at Sam Adams for not only being technical enough brewers to hit this style dead-on, but also to offer some hops that do not feel like a punishment to drink.  This offers a taste of hops, a great spring thirst-killer, and a thorough understanding of the (American) pilsner style.  It may not have been my personal cup of tea, but I cannot give it a lower rating in good conscience.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

New Glarus Brewing Co. - Unplugged/Smoked Rye Ale

Well, gang as that not two weeks ago I made a beer run to New Glarus, WI with some dear friends of mine, there are going to be a few (ok, more than a few) New Glarus brew reviews coming in the near future.  However, I will try to spread them out.  This will keep you from getting bored, me from drinking all my New Glarus at once, and will keep me trying different beers.  Win-win-win.

This week's selection is from their "Unplugged" series.  To paraphrase from their bottle, this is where they let their brewmaster do whatever the heck he wants and see what happens.  This particular bottle is from his "Smoked Rye Ale" doings.  I like smoked beers and I love rye (the hard alcohol AND the bread) so I am pretty stoked to sample this.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 10/12
Smoke greets the nose first.  It is not the sweet smoke of mesquite, nor the dark smoke or a darkly roasted malt, but the smoke of campfire.  Just regular woodfire smoke, I do not say "regular" to put it down, only to give an accurate description of the beer.  There is also a sour smell that comes from the rye and some spices.  In fact, if you "smell the forest for the trees," these scents all combine to make the smell of, well, chaw.  If you've even opened a fresh tin of non-flavored chewing tobacco, this beer smells remarkably like that.  I personally do not care for chewing tobacco so I am a bit wary of the rest of this beer.

Appearance 2/3
A dark copper color with shades of red pours easily from the bottle.  It produces somewhere between a small and medium amount of beige-colored head.  It dissipates quickly but does leave a small amount of lacing on the glass.  Even toward the end of the pint a collar remains.  The effervescence of the head was interesting to watch: loose bubbles hung low underneath the head, but eventually rose and became part of the tighter-knit whole.  I know most beers function this way, but this beer's did not all happen at once.  The effect was almost like a lava lamp or those old water toys people used to keep on their desks where the drops of color would fall down ramps or spirals or turn wheels.

Picture is my own.

Flavor 17/20
I could see this category varying for different people.  Not everyone likes smoked beer and not everyone likes rye.  I happen to love both.  The first taste is the tartness of the rye, it fades very nicely (and quickly) into the sweet roasted malt flavor.  The sweetness of the malt is the primary flavor, and if held in the mouth long enough will even turn sugary sweet for the finish.  The sweetness is not overpowering thanks to the unfamiliar flavors of the rye.  My first sip finished buttery which then revisted the sweetness before settling into a bit of a dry aftertaste.  The buttery flavor was hard to  discern the rest of the pint, but did result in an "Oh my gosh!" during that first sip.  Thankfully, the chaw flavor was absent, but occasionally makes itself present during an exhale.  Fascinating drink!

Mouthfeel 3/5
Nothing jaw-dropping here, but nothing distracting either.  A medium-light body is accompanied by a higher level of carbonation than the style demands.  Keeping in mind that this beer is a sipper, the high carbonation may be necessary to have an adequate level by the end.  Smooth.

Overall Impression 8/10
A tasty brew!  This addition of unique ingredients makes for a very interesting experience.  The mature flavors sacrifice drinkability, but not for a hefty price.  The taste of actual sugar was an especially interesting moment.  It is a bit malty in the balance, but overall a flavorful, rich, smooth, unique, and worthwhile beer.  

Total 40/50 (Excellent)
It is a cruel irony that it is hard to review a beer that does not have a particular style, but I love drinking beers that experiment and vary from styles.  This beer certainly provided that challenge.  Talk about a chord of unusual flavors, especially in a beer!  Having just written that sentence, I cannot imagine the challenge that it must have been to not only incorporate these strong, different flavors into a beer, but to do so accurately and without overwhelming the drinker is quite a feat.  Long story short?  I love smoke beers, I love rye, I love Reuben sandwiches, and the sugar was pretty cool too.  Big kudos to New Glarus on this one for the technical creation, the imagination to create it, and for having it all come together nicely.  Cheers!


Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Samuel Smith's - Old Brewery Pale Ale

Allow me to start by stating that my experience with true Pale Ale's (a.k.a. "English Pale Ale") is far and few between to say the least.  It is much more common to find IPAs or American PAs than anything else.  So while I am used to the style's variations, I cannot claim great familiarity with the original style.  Other styles you rather know what to expect: stouts are dark roasted and coffee-ish, hefes are cloudy, creamy, and spiced.  With this style relatively unfamiliar to me, I am really going to have to use my palate and sniffer to find out just what exactly I am tasting.  Wish me luck.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 10/12
A sweet, sweet smell arises from this brew.  Thankfully, it is not the beat-you-over-the-head hop scent that the offshoot styles prefer.  There are apples and an extremely floral scent.  Very appropriate for this springtime when everything is budding and blooming.  The hops are there, but unaggressively so, which is appropriate for the style.  A very pleasing aroma.

Appearance 3/3
This beer may have the longest head retention of any I have had the pleasure of sampling.  I pours a lovely amber color with a healthy-sized beige head.  Everything is up to par here and rated accordingly.

Picture is my own.

Flavor 17/20
A superbly balanced beer!  I can see where the offshoot styles seize their inspiration.  First to the mouth is a buttery, almost nutty toasted malt.  Its sweetness is mild and is matched perfectly by the complimentary, not overstated, hops.  Although the hops are not floral nor sweet as they were in the aroma, they blend perfectly with the malt allowing it a sweeter finish before truly making their dry and bitter presence known in the aftertaste.  It is a very neat sensation.

Mouthfeel  5/5
Initially high carbonation quickly yields to a style appropriate level.  A smooth, medium-bodied beer with great drinkability.  No flaws here.  Keeps it simple and does it right.

Overall Impression (8/10)
It is hard to judge this beer because it is simply that: beer.  There are no gimmicky flavors here.  This is straight up, old school beer with classic ingredients and a near immaculate balance.  It is so fundamentally strong that it does not need gimmicks to cover up a lackluster flavor or flaw.

Total (43/50) Excellent
This score places it near the top of the "Excellent" category.  This is just a superbly made, simple beer.  If you're not going to experiment with the style, then you better nail it to the wall and Samuel Smith's does exactly that.  Samuel Smith's is commanding more and more of my respect with each brew of theirs that I drink.  They are not flashy, but they perfect authentic styles and tell you how it is supposed to be.  Definitely a session beer and an true authentic sampling in a time where craft beers too often turn to copious amounts of ingredients.  These simple ingredients blend perfectly (I cannot stress that enough) and should be a lesson to others in the art of balance.

This will not appeal to those seeking crazy, strong flavors, but it is hands-down a technically fantastic beer.  It would also be an excellent gateway to those entering into the world of "hop heads."  Best to know your roots before you sally forth, boys.

Sand Creek Brewing Co. - Lilja's Wisconsin Heifer Weizen

Time to honor one of the foundations of craft beer, drinking from a small brewery of which I have never heard.  Now the label of this beer has a lot of jokes/puns on it (Heifer Weizen, "Brewed Behind The Cheddar Curtain," a cow saying "Got beer?", a tiny caption reading "ylnevaeh spoh"), but it is all rather distracting.  Besides the fact that Cheddar is a English cheese in origin (yes, I am aware of Wisconsin's dairy prowess) and that "ylnevaeh spoh" is simply "heavenly hops" spelled backwards (not exactly an inside joke), I had a hard time finding the name of the actual brewer!

At first I thought "Lilja's" would be correct, then I found something that listed "Pangeabeers.com," and THEN I had to read the part of the label way off to the side that read, "Brewed by Sand Creek Brewing Co."  I like a joke on the label (and clever marketing) as much as the next guy, but how are you supposed to promote your brewery when I can barely find the name on the bottle?

Anyway, rant aside, I love a good beer.  Especially hefes and especially good beer from Wisconsin.  This beer has the excellent potential to be both.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 6/12
Not what one comes to expect from a hefe.  In fact, the "banana-y" smell is almost nonexistent.  What the aroma does provide is more sour than sweet.  This leads one to believe a high citrus base, but without the sugary goodness that normally accompanies it.  The sour mixes with a grassy hop smell with the wheat showing up from time to time.  It is dominated by sour and grass.  An odd combination which is not to style and makes me a bit wary.

Appearance 2/3
My initial "sniffing pour" (2-3 oz) poured  crystal clear.  This had me very concerned until I poured the rest of the bottle and it clouded up accordingly.  In fact, there was a lot of tasty sediment at the bottom and I made sure to get every last drop.  It pours a cloudy earth-tone yellow with a sound amount of cream white head to top it.  No lacing, but the head stuck around long enough to not let me gripe about it.

Picture is my own.


Flavor 12/20
The first flavor to arrive is that of spice.  Unfortunately, it is not coriander and clove (though those are present), it is a more pepper and clove mix.  This, when combined with the bitter of the hops, give the main palate of this beer a very unusual flavor for the style.  The sweetness is almost completely overpowered and is only shines through in the finish and aftertaste.  When it does, it tastes like a hefe should: sweet, banana, wheat deliciousness.  Until you get to that point, you are in for a bit of a surprise.  The only sweetness I detected in the primary flavor was that of lemon and even that may have been based in coriander and the sweetness of the wheat itself.  Not to style.

Mouthfeel 3/5
Body was adequate and the carbonation was a bit high for the style.  Not exactly the creamy treat one usually hopes for in a hefe, but it also had a hint of warmth.  I am seldom disappointed by warmth when I find it, even if it is only a bit.

Overall Impression 5/10
This particular brew is not appropriate to style in several categories.  The smell is not sweetly inviting and intoxicating, the flavor is spicy, barely sweet, and almost bitter, and the mouthfeel eliminates the creaminess which so often compliments the fruity, estery goodness that is a good hefe.

Total  29/50 (Good)
I appreciate a good variation on a style as much as the next man, but I am not even sure what to call this particular style.  It has all the spiciness of a winter seasonal (though different spices) and the (albeit muted) fruity taste and cloudiness of a hefe.  It is definitely an odd combination and not entirely pleasing.  We drink hefes because they are also everything we want in a life-mate: sweet, smells nice, and goes down easy.  I feel that this brewer tried to make a more balanced version of a hefe (of which I would approve), but overspiced it and got a little to proud of their "heavenly hops."  I sure their hops may just be heavenly, but that does not mean they get to maintain their lofty position in this particular style.

I'll definitely pass on this offering if I found it again, but I'm more than willing to try more brews from a small brewer who is trying to make something different than the norm.  Keep trying, Sand Creek!

Monday, April 11, 2011

Terrapin - Wake N Bake Coffee Oatmeal Imperial Stout

Readers, I thank you for your patience.  I've been a bit under the weather the past week and while I do not completely endorse "tea totalling" during illness, I would not have been able to tell you the aroma of a beer if I tried.  That said, I will be making up for lost time and writing one review every day for the next week.

This week's beer is Terrapin Beer Co.'s Wake N Bake Coffee Oatmeal Imperial Stout (discretely labeled on the bottle as "W-n-B").  To me that sounds like a mouthful.  The only types of stout the left out were oatmeal raisin, oak aged, milk, and several types of overpriced, caffeinated beverages (espresso, mocha, cappucino, etc).  While this will make the beer harder to categorize under a single particular style, I will hopefully be able to differentiate some characteristics it takes from each.  Big thanks to Brent C. (Bartender Extraordinaire) for the suggestion and Keith for the bottle.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.

Aroma 9/12
First sniff is of dark chocolate, but boy has he brought some friends!  There is also the essence of a milk stout and a bit of smokiness, though in subsequent sniffs I determined that the smoke was merely the dark roasted malt.  You can even smell the warmth in this one!  Exciting!  I love a good, stiff brew.

Appearance 3/3
This beer poured thick, which is almost always a good sign in a stout.  In the glass, it did not take much effort to produce a nice-sized, brown head on top.  The beer is pitch, friggin' black, which is exactly what I like to see in a stout.  Not only is the color awesome in the beer and the head, but the latter had some decent retention as well.  If I could give bonus points, I would.

Picture is my own.


Flavor 20/20
If you think I am about to drop every stout description in the universe, it is because I may.  Do not forget, this is called a "coffee oatmeal imperial stout."  Long story short, this beer is complex and I love that.  Initial sips are sweet.  The milk stout (ahem, the oatmeal which GIVES the milk stout flavor) of the aroma makes itself known and is accompanied by rich, dark fruit flavor.  Other times, it will also include a dark caramel in the  initial flavor.  The dark fruit-based sweetness is the primary flavor in the beer, but far from solitary.  This sweetness will hang around in your mouth as long as you let it.  It waits for you to take the next step (which is really cool).  Once you do begin to swallow, this beer performs a perfect transition from its current sweetness to the bitter tones beneath it.  As I drank the pint, I thought the sweetness was fading into a dark chocolate flavor just before a drier, coffee finish.  However, I now think the chocolate flavor was just a perfect melding of the sweet and the dark bitter.  The warmth from the aroma makes its appearance in the aftertaste along with the coffee bean bitterness.  Note:  not "coffee", but "coffee bean."  Very balanced and very tasty.

Mouthfeel 4/5
This had a good body for a stout.  It did not drink as thick as it poured, but was still a heavier-than-medium body.  The carbonation (appropriately) faded away to low levels quickly after the pour.  The warmth in this beer was a very nice touch.  It was not until later that I looked at the bottle and discovered it had a 8.1% ABV!  No wonder I could smell the warmth!  In fact, this is also VERY appropriate to the imperial stout style  as high alcohol contents were need to preserve the beer while shipping the long journey to Russia.  The body and warmth make this a sipper, but the flavor always has you picking up the glass for another taste.


Overall Impression 10/10
It hits the nail on the head and I have no idea how.  OK, so I see how its feasible to nail the appearance since all three are stouts (coffee, oatmeal, imperial), but the flavor?!  Yet, all three are there without the compromise of any other.  Its an amazing accomplishment.  This beer is dark, balanced, warm, complex, opaque, and a very exciting combination of styles.

Total 46/50 (Outstanding)
This beer promised us a lot in its name and it delivered.  While it is primarily a imperial stout, there is certainly coffee present and the oatmeal shows itself in milk stout and caramel tones.  I initially had ranked this beer lower in some categories, but as I was reviewing the scores I could not justify them.  Of course it deserves a 10 in overall impression!  Not only did it peg one style, but three.  Of course it deserves a 20 in flavor!  What more do I want?  More complexity?  More experimentation of the style?  If I gave it a 19/20, what more was looking for in this beer?  What was I hoping to see that I did not which would have made it perfect?

I could not answer that.  I have a hard time finding this beer, but I am in a much smaller market.  If you see this, buy it.  Kudos to the boys at Terrapin.  We owe you one.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

New Glarus - Unplugged/Apple Ale

After a road trip to New Glarus Brewery and picking up some unusual bottles I headed home excited about the reviews that were to come.  This is one of those reviews.  It is from something that New Glarus is now apparently calling "Unplugged," though I have seen this Apple Ale in its own packaging before.  There are now several brews in this "Unplugged" label, usually accompanied with a red foil top.  Initially, I thought it was to save costs for limited releases (each unique beer would not require its own label), but on the side each one still has a description of the beer.  So that theory is down the tubes.  It does have the following paragraph on each Unplugged bottle before that unique beer's description.

"Some people pain, some sing, others write... I brew." -Daniel Carey
A few times a year we will cut Dan loose to brew whatever he chooses, uncensored, uncut, unplugged. Always handcrafted, the bottle you hold is brewed for the adventurous soul.  This is a very limited edition and we make no promises to ever brew this style again.

This is right up my alley and I'm sure most other craft beer drinkers as well.  Limited supply, encouraged brewer creativity, "adventurous soul," maybe never brewed again... what more do you want?!?  This description plus the distinction of New Glarus Brewery has me very excited to crack this brew open.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 8/12
There are some very good things happening in the aroma.  Initial inhales instantly imply apple.  Much like their other fruit-based brews, it is an authentic fruit smell, and not artificially sweet.  After the initial effervescence slows down, an extremely faint, biscuity malt shows through, and is then overcome again by the smell of apples.  The reprise of the apples is more cidery than the initial aroma, bearing both the sour and the spice characteristics of true apple cider.  One could definitely compare it to sparkling cider, but with more authenticity.  No are hops detectable.

Appearance 2/3
The pour creates a medium-sized, white head that collapses quickly.  The appearance of this ale seems to mix the clarity of apple juice (completely translucent) and the color of apple cider (dark rust).  A nice nod to its namesake and combines nice elements of both.  There was no lacing left on the glass.

Flavor 14/20
A tasty beer, but it is difficult to discern the 'ale' in this 'Apple Ale.'  The apples are certainly present.  Their sweetness is the first sensation and very pleasant.  It transitions quickly to the slightly spiced/bitter cidery flavor and stays there until the finish, which is fantastic.  It finishes with a buttery(!) note, but without completely losing the sweetness of the apple.  Very neat and very complimentary sensation!  However, any malt presence is beyond my palate to detect unless it is blended with the sweetness of the apple.  This beer states it has a brown ale base, but it is completely lost in the cidery/goodness.  As it stands, this beer is extremely flavorful, but not true to style.

Mouthfeel 3/5
Extremely light in body and "Woodchuck-esque" in its drinkability.  It is a very satiating brew.  Moderate carbonation throughout the pint allows the aromas to reappear again and again.  That is not always an easy ask after already having tasted the beer.

Overall Impression 6/10
This is tasty, but for the price (Unplugged series are typically sold in 4-packs around $8, at least at the brewery) I would rather try one of their other specialty beers.  This beer lacks the complexity of other fruit-based New Glarus offerings and is more of a cider than an ale.  Its clarity, good carbonation, fruit-dominated flavor, and nearly imperceptible malt all point to cider (yes, I am aware ciders do not employ malts in their brewing process).

Total  33/50
I am a little disappointed with this New Glarus offering, but perhaps only because they have set the bar so high for themselves with prior offerings.  This beer still tastes great, but it reminds me a little too much of Woodchuck's Fall Cider without all the punch-you-in-the-face amount of spices.  In fact, because I do not expect a lot from a Woodchuck I was extremely pleased with their Fall Cider and looked for it several times during the season.  This New Glarus bottle had all my expectations upon it and I was left wanting.

          The true apple taste allow this brew to be marketed as a fall (yum, apples!) or sumer seasonal (very satisfying on a hot day).  Overall, it lacks the complexity and nuance that I have come to associate with New Glarus.  To me, this tasted like a cider and I would challenge most others to try and discern the difference in appearance or taste.  Due to its diverging from the style, this beer has suffered some points.  In summary, I liked Woodchuck's seasonal and I like this.  I simply have come to expect more from the excellent brewers at New Glarus than this simple, not-to-style offering.


UPDATE:  Be sure to check out the "redemption bottle" that helped this brew, but not perfect it.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Lakefront Brewery - Fuel Cafe Coffee Stout

Time to give some credit to a smaller brewery that is definitely doing its part to make me some tasty beer.  This review is for Lakefront Brewery based out of sunny Milwaukee, Wisconsin.  I came upon this brewery in my research for breweries to which I would  like to roadtrip.  One problem - I had not yet sampled its beer.  I reasoned that I should know first what I am getting into and made it part of a "variety pack" sixer at my local establishment.  Let's pour!

Picture is my own.  Bottle art image used without permission for educational uses only.
Aroma 10/12
Quite a few things going on here!  They label this as a coffee stout, but the aroma is primarily a chocolate-coffee blend (I suppose that would be a "mocha").  The malt is present also with a deep roasty aroma that might even be a bit burnt.  I had trouble discerning any hops.  I know that stouts are not known for a strong hop presence, but they do depend on them to balance out all the dark, inherently sweet malt that they use.  I did not even get a hint of hops in this.

Appearance 3/3
It looks like a stout should - opaque, black, and a nice tan head.  It pours thick into the glass and produces a moderate-sized head, which dissipates quickly.  When present, the head is fantastic!  It is like a light, whipped chocolate whose flavors meld into bitter coffee.  What a great way to start a beer! EBC is right where it should be, around a 70+.

Picture is my own.

Flavor 13/20
While this score does not reflect a beer that is lacking in flavor and technical merit, it does indicate a beer that is not brewed to style.  The aroma, as it is time and time again, is an accurate foreshadowing of the flavor beneath it.  The sweet malt is first to be noticed, with its dark, smoky flavors.  Soon after comes a strong chocolate sweetness which makes up the majority of the palate.  Holding the beer in the mouth, it does not vary much: you get the malt up front and the chocolate sweetness.  To  Fuel Cafe's credit the two flavors do blend very well together and you get a dark, sweet, malty sensation.  However, this is a coffee stout and unfortunately the coffee does not make itself known until the finish.  At first I wanted to classify it as "subtle" in its coffee flavor, but I now believe that to be the dark (a bit burnt) malt blending with the chocolate.  There is very little in the way of a bitter aftertaste.  In fact, this is one of the cleanest finishing stouts (if such a thing is possible) I have ever had.

Mouthfeel 3/5
A bit light in the body for a stout.  The carbonation was also a little high for the style, but turned more appropriate as the pint continued.  No warmth or creaminess of which to speak.

Overall Impression 7/10
In summary, a darn tasty beer that I would not mind picking up again.  The aroma was exciting as was the appearance and the pour.  However, the flavor and mouthfeel were as if they were from a different beer.  With a bit more bitter (coffee flavor or hops for balance), this could be a superior coffee stout.  As it stands, it is closer to a milk stout or an aggressive winter brew without the warmth and spices.

Total 36/50 (Very Good)
This beer is in the middle of several styles and that is the only thing holding it back.  The aroma and head are phenomenal!  The taste is simply too sweet for a true coffee stout.  This brings up an argument I have with myself - "Where is the line drawn between stylistic accuracy with one's own added nuances and plain old going off on your own?"  I like to think that a strong base in the intended style is key to success.  You have to build a good lamp before you can build a chandelier.  I suppose the same dedication to fundamental excellence (e.g. Larry Bird) is what can also contribute to an excellent beer.  This one, while definitely adding their own twist, strayed just a bit too far from the path.  It is a fine line to tread and I would be excited to try their other offerings.  After all, who does not approve of experimentation and variation in their craft brews?