Shmaltz - Reunion Ale '11

All the convincing I needed to buy this bottle was to see the the names Schmaltz & Terrapin on the label.  I had no idea that they had done a collaboration, but let's just say that the idea did not disappoint me.  Those two breweries have put out some truly tasty craft beers and collaboration between the two has lots of potential.  This beer also has the potential to be something greater than just a great collaboration.  The label indicates that this is "A beer for hope" that will help raise funds and awareness for "the Institute for Myeloma & Bone Cancer Research."  Having a sister who contracted leukemia when she was 3 years old (she's now 28 thank-you-very-much), bone cancer research is a cause near and dear to my heart (and bones).  I love seeing breweries give back to their community in such a huge way.

Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, I'll let Shmaltz tell you the story behind this beer via their label:

"Teaming up with Terrapin Beer Co. for the first time, Shmaltz Brewing joins the tribe as a production partner for the Reunion '11.  We brew Reunion each year in memory of our dear friend and partner in this venture  Virginia MacLean.  Virginia lost her battle with Multiple Myeloma in 2007.  It was her wish that we continue on behalf of The Institute for Myeloma & Bone Cancer Research (www.imbcr.org)."

Aroma 10/12

The detected aromas read like a checklist off of the front of the bottle.  First comes plenty of the cocoa nibs, but they're being sweetened by a brazen vanilla scent.  The vanilla, thanks to its surroundings, comes off as being a dark vanilla and not an "ice cream" like sugary sweetness.  The roasted chiles are not far behind and their contribution is the expected heat and a more subtle roast flavor than most beers in the same genre.  I could see how the combination of sweet and spicy could lead some people to detect a cinnamon aroma in this brew, but it is only an illusion.  This is another beer that truly needs time to warm in the glass.  After only a few minutes all those separate aromas really come together in a cohesive blend that showcases the cocoa, but still features a boozy vanilla and faint smokey roast.  This gives me high hopes.

Appearance 3/3

This beer pours like a brown, but the label describes it as a "dark imperial ale."  The color would also have us believe that this is a brown (maaaybe even an imperial one), by showing a general coffee color, almost complete opacity, and dim ruby highlights when held to a light.  The head is lasting and tan and its texture quickly takes up a creamy appearance.

Flavor 17/20

Immediately, I am again given the impression of a sharp, cinnamon spiciness in this brew.  I wonder what combination of ingredients is providing that sensation (I'm guessing a combination of roasted notes from the peppers and some perky carbonation).  Any sensory experts out there care to comment?  In any case, it is quickly washed away by a smooth, dark cocoa.  Vanilla is present, but doesn't really come out until the brown malts begin to sing their tune.  The brown malts are rich, quite sweet, and seem to be paired up with a honey of sorts.  Yet another flavor not mentioned in their ingredients, but whose sweetness is undeniable.  If you let the beer sit long enough and heat from the chili begins to smolder through, but for the most part it politely waits its turn until the finish.  Speaking of the finish, it's rather subdued as a whole.  Right after swallowing it seems to only have a grainy malted note, but soon the heat trickles in until it is noticeable, but stops well short of being even a moderate heat.  The bitter of the cocoa nibs follows slowly, but is not intended to be balancing.  However, the contrast from the sweet malts is a another layer of complexity and flavor in this beer.

Mouthfeel 4/5

I'm torn when rating this mouthfeel.  Part of me thinks that an "imperial ale" needs to feel much bigger in the mouth.  Another part thinks that any beer with chiles needs to maintain some carbonation and a bit of a lighter mouthfeel to be somewhat drinkable and not a hot, syrupy mess.  This beer is far from syrupy (or a mess), but I also feel that it's far from "imperial."  The carbonation actually keeps this beer quite refreshing even far into the 22 oz bomber bottle.  Also, while the beer is far from "imperial," that may be more due to the not-insanely-intense level of flavor than it is the mouthfeel.  The mouthfeel is actually quite sturdy, thanks to the abundance of brown malts, and adequately carries all the flavors presented.

Overall Impression 8/10

This is a chile beer that actually provides some noticeable heat and thus, deflates my main complaint with chile beers in general.  It also has a nice sweetness thanks to loads of body-giving brown malts, vanilla, and cocoa nibs.  It is imperial?  No.  Is it a chile ale and NOT marketed as such?  Yes.  The carbonation amounts are fantastic and really make this beer refreshing despite the fact that it contains chiles.

Total 42/50

Overall, this is a collaboration which which I'm pleased.  It's got great flavors, even if they're not necessarily unique to this style of brew, and I enjoy the ample carbonation and body.  However, if they're going to call it imperial, then I wish those flavors were more intense and give the impression of a "big beer," but it's still an above average chile beer as it stands.  I do give them kudos for a very complex malt profile and also the aforementioned heat level.  There's a lot working for this beer and seemingly only a label classification that works against it.  I'd definitely buy it again.  It's right up there with Stone's 11.11.11, only I had never heard of this brew until I found it on a shelf.  I'm glad I did.  L'chaim!

New Belgium - Cocoa Molé

HAPPY 20TH ANNIVERSARY NEW BELGIUM!!  From a struggling Colorado basement brewer, to a "What's a Fat Tire?", to a craft brewing giant (3rd largest in the US) in 26 states; not bad for 20 years work! Of course, today's review will help commemorate their milestone as I crack open a bottle out of their Lips of Faith series - Cocoa Molé.  Having expressed some disappointment with some chile beers in the past, a lot of craft beer friends recommended Cocoa Molé as a solid go-to beer.  I'm always up for a recommendation so I picked it up on a recent trip to the Chicago burbs.  I've been looking forward to it ever since.  Let's pour!

Aroma 11/12

Most of the aroma here is definitely from the roasting of the ancho, guajillo, and chipotle peppers used in its brewing.  It's a smokey, peat-like aroma and dominates the scene early on.  In fact, I initially gave its aroma a rather average score.  Good things come to those who wait.  After warming ever so slightly, the chocolate comes out full force and is almost a new aroma altogether after blending with the roasted peppers and a new cinnamon note.  I never thought chocolate could smell so alien to me!  Very neat.  The blend itself is seemingly fleeting as that on subsequent sniffs, each ingredient is determined to stand out on its own.  I don't say this in a bad way.  It's like a revolving door of different aromas.

Appearance 3/3

Wow, did this pour darker than expected!  It pours a dirty brown into the glass, a calling card from the chocolate malts and, if you've ever cooked with them, probably the ancho chiles.  First glances, make this beer appear very opaque and dark.  Closer inspections reveal a dark burnt mahogany and when held to light, shades of plum!  Yes plum! The purple shades are unmistakable and a complete surprise.  What other secrets does this beer hold?  The head is beige, dense, and offers better than average retention and size.

Flavor 20/20

This is insane!  And by insane, I mean insanely awesome.  There is SO much going on here, but as in the aroma, each item insists on having its moment in the sun.  Normally, I look for a great blend, but with so many unique ingredients, I don't mind the opportunity to soak them all up.  We're first given a heaping ladle-full of nearly bitter cocoa malts along with the slight saltiness from the roasted peppers.  Heading into the backbone of the flavor, the cocoa malts become sweeter with the addition of caramel malts and a dash of cinnamon.  Next the peppers come forward in a cloud of sweet smoke, roasted flavors, and some chile heat (yes!).  If you hold the beer in the mouth, the roast begins to blend very interestingly with the sweetness and later on the spices start to blend with the chiles' heat.  Lots of cool stuff going on here!  The finish, as expected, adds a flash of heat to the back of the throat and leaves it to tingle on the tongue.  It also shows a strong cinnamon that (and this is important) does not dominate the entire damn beer.  The aftertaste is a lingering warmth in the mouth and a dull sweetness.  I am so impressed with this beer!

Mouthfeel 5/5

This beer feels solid in the mouth without being downright heavy.  Its sturdy mouthfeel undoubtedly given by the loads of sweet malts involved in its manufacture.  The carbonation is dead on: not absent, not too much for a bigger beer, just enough to keep it from being thick though it has virtually no foaming when in the mouth.  It keeps this big, sweet, and spicy beer drinkable, despite that "big, sweet, and spicy" often fight against that characteristic.  The bottle reads 9% ABV, but I never saw a trace of it through the other flavors.

Brownie points for cool "Dia de los Muertos" style bottle art.

Overall Impression 10/10

Loved it.  This beer did so much right!  The aroma foreshadows the beer to come, the appearance has a few surprises, and the mouthfeel is just right.  The flavor... oh man, the flavor.  While it may not be unique ingredients among beers that try to harness that Aztec-based "xocoatl," it certainly seems to be the first that has done it right.

Total 49/50

Cocoa Molé has eradicated so many of my pet peeves involving beers of this style!  First off, most beers that use cinnamon (winter warmers, pumpkin beers, this "cocoa/Hispanic" style) completely overuse the cinnamon.  If I wanted that much cinnamon, I'd buy a box of Red Hots candy.  I don't know why this is so prevalent in craft beer.  If your Grandma made an apple pie and all you could taste was cinnamon, I don't care how good a cook your Grandma is, you wouldn't eat it.  This beer hides the cinnamon brilliantly behind the roasted flavors and the heat.  Well done!  Second... A CHILE BEER IN WHICH I CAN ACTUALLY TASTE THE CHILES!!!!!  It seems that all chile beers shy away from the fact that there are chile peppers in their beer.  They advertise it well enough for those adventurous to try it, but those brave souls are often left wanting when the beer contains virtually no detectable heat!  Does this seem counter-intuitive to anyone else?

Thankfully, New Belgium has shown the way with how chile beers should be brewed.  It uses the cinnamon wisely and sparingly, while allowing the chiles to do what they do best - be flavorful and amazing.  When I was prepping to do a beer review today, I was in a bad mood.  I didn't know if I'd be able to give a beer a fair shake.  This beer absolutely turned that around!  Beer Advocate indicates that this is a "limited (brewed once)" beer.  I certainly hope not.  It is one of the best chile beers I have had to date and I would buy it on a regular basis.  Kudos to New Belgium and their MANY more anniversaries!